Let's Paint!

[Zombie]

I'd like to mention that the reason why I didn't put a clear polyurethane on the new plywood table top was because what the workbench looked like after wear and tear. And that look would be unacceptable to a table where customers see it on a regular basis. Surprisingly, some customers or visitors actually get to see my workbench even though the room where it's located is near the back of the building. That's because the back cooler is in the next room further so they have to walk past it sometimes.

 

- Zombie

[Zombie]

Changing gears to a different project (haven't forgot about any of the other things on the list, just trying to address most problem areas before it gets busy again). So, in the backroom where I work there is the workbench (obviously) and a number of other tables. One of them is a long table which is used almost everyday for just about everything so it gets a ton of wear. Unfortunately, a previous worker with a good heart but dumb mind thought it was a fantastic idea to use the cheapest table top imaginable (Formica over HDF - High Density Fiberboard). Once the thin formica was worn through, water finds it's way into the HDF causing it to expand and bubble. Not an ideal surface for high use and water. I started painting it years ago which helps tremendously to keep it in decent shape, but paint is not a cure all - I normally touch up the top every year around this time. I'm just biding my time till I can fix it properly (new plywood + polyurethane floor enamel) which might happen this summer. (I also agreed to fix 4 workstation tables in the shop this summer - the boss liked the job I did on the table by the sink and is authorizing the workstation areas when things quiet down. So I might take you along for the ride on that escapade - I already figured out what I'm going to do).

 

Anyhow, because of the bubbling, I scraped the loose areas (which wasn't much thankfully) and also nailed some areas down with ring shank nails for holding power. Now that the surface was solid, I caulked the cracks, nail divots and as many of the low spots that I could get to.

 

 

Caulk maybe isn't the best thing for the job, but I couldn't think of anything that was cheaper and easier to apply (and fixable). After the caulk, it's time to prime the caulked areas with that excellent latex primer. It has no problem sticking to most everything, including caulk, gloss oil paint, paint brushes and skin.

 

 

The next step is to lightly sand any high areas of caulk with 120 grit, then put another thin coat of primer on the sanded spots. If that dries quick enough I might be able to put a coat of grey polyurethane over that for some level of immediate protection. I'm not sure if I'm going to bother topcoating with the decorative hammered finish paint on it now - it depends how the poly covers.

 

- Zombie

[Thorondor]

I see things continue to bubble over into your work schedule, Zombie.

 

That table almost seems to strech to the horizon. Fortunately you appear to be well equipped, including hardware for ambient music to better deal with the extensive recovery work.

 

Just be sure not to jump the shark, given you likely can't be sure when you'll actually go the distance and apply the new plywood, etc.

[Zombie]

That table almost seems to stretch to the horizon. Fortunately you appear to be well equipped, including hardware for ambient music to better deal with the extensive recovery work.

 

The table is pretty long at 16 feet (or about 5 meters), but there are times where I wish it was longer. And yup, I get to have tunes where I work which is a big benefit because I can listen to whatever I want at whatever volume I want (within reason).

 

Just be sure not to jump the shark, given you likely can't be sure when you'll actually go the distance and apply the new plywood, etc.

 

I don't think I ever heard the phrase "jump the shark" before. Explain please? (I've heard of "jump the gun" before which means doing something too soon, is this similar)? In any event, the new plywood for the table would happen sometime late in the summer after all the workstations are finished assuming I can talk the bossman into it.

 

I didn't have a ton of time to spend on painting today as I was needed elsewhere for some projects. I did end up sanding the rough spots on the table (used 80 grit instead of 120 as it did a better job of knocking down the high spots). Now, I could have went back to the same white latex primer again but I decided against making things whiter. I ended up using a grey spray paint primer which I always have on hand. The nice thing about the grey spray primer is that you don't need a brush to apply it and you can come back to priming and pick up where you left off (handy when you are being called away to do other things). Took a couple of pics of that:

 

 

The paint was a little wet in some spots in the picture which you might be able to see. I let it dry and then sprayed some areas which were showing some white yet. At least the grey primer matches the final color closely so it should be easier to cover. The plan is to apply the first coat tomorrow afternoon after the work is done in the room. This is assuming I don't get called away again.

 

- Zombie

[Thorondor]

Yeah, Zombie, one of those silly trendy terms, "jump the shark": the original meaning was the point when a television series shows it has run out of ideas and must resort to stunts to retain viewer interest.

 

Not meant literally here, of course, as all I was alluding to was you should perhaps stop yourself from getting overly carried away in a particular job (let's face it, a somewhat battered old table): caulked, sanding, coat of primer, then queue polyurethane coat, possible topcoat... all to eventually be relieved by applywing plywood.

 

You're evidently a perfectionist though, and, after all, one can scarcely argue with the results you accomplish.

[Zombie]

Yeah, Zombie, one of those silly trendy terms, "jump the shark": the original meaning was the point when a television series shows it has run out of ideas and must resort to stunts to retain viewer interest.

 

Ah, got it! I did hear that term recently too.

 

Not meant literally here, of course, as all I was alluding to was you should perhaps stop yourself from getting overly carried away in a particular job (let's face it, a somewhat battered old table): caulked, sanding, coat of primer, then queue polyurethane coat, possible topcoat... all to eventually be relieved by applying plywood.

 

This did occur to me, however you have to realize that there's no guarantee I'll get the go-ahead to attach a new top to the table. Or maybe I will not get the time. Or I might get hit by a bus. In the end though, I haven't really spent a ton of time fixing the current top, I figure with time and materials, the fix is about $20. Can you replace the top for that? If it was just the plywood, it would be close to $40 but then you have to add my time to tear off the old top and attach the new one, plus the screws, caulk, wood preservative, primer, etc. It all adds up.

 

The top really needed to be fixed now, before it gets busy. Say I set a $100 vase of roses down on a bubble at valentines day and it tips over and falls on the floor. Is the $20 fix worth it if it means not having to replace and redo the arrangement? The table top is hard to clean when there are divots in it, and water soaks in areas where there isn't paint. Not to mention all the bacteria and mold that might form and be transferred to the flowers which get placed there. With a smooth table top which is impervious to those things it makes cleanup faster and easier. Bossman is fine with what I'm doing. He's happy it's getting done before we start to get busy and once that happens, I probably will not have much time for another 3-4 months.

 

I applied a coat of polyurethane on the table top near closing time today. It kinda worked out good, because all my coworkers left so they couldn't complain about the smell.

 

 

It seems pretty good to me, but the real test is how it looks (and feels) dry. That'll be the litmus test if another coat is necessary.

 

- Zombie

[Thorondor]

Alright, Zombie, you've made your case. Can't argue with the benefits in practicality of use, or the low expense figures.

 

The table does look good in the picture. Just try not to give your coworkers too many paint-fumes induced headaches right at the start of the year.

[Zombie]

A few days ago I slapped on another coat of polyurethane on the workbench to fill in the last of the divots. It was just one coat though, and when it dried it was pretty rough due to all the trapped air bubbles in it. Today I had a little time at the end of the day to apply a (hopefully) final dual coat. And while I was at it, I put a couple coats on one of our Rubbermaid Commercial Products carts. It gets heavy use and I usually try to clear coat the top during the summer, but never got around to it last year. No time like the present. Using polyurethane on it is something new I thought I'd try instead of using a clear lacquer in a spray can. If this dries decently I might still put a lacquer coat over the top yet as that seems to form a harder finish. Here's both of the items hanging out to dry together:

 

 

I'll try and get a pic of it dry tomorrow, time permitting.

 

Still happy about the paint job on that long table in the back room. It's so damn easy to keep it clean now, it's not even funny. It does need another coat on it as there are some high spots where I can see white primer, and there are a few spots where I didn't apply the paint heavy enough and the old finish is poking through - plus there are some brush marks. I might do that tomorrow, again, time permitting.

 

- Zombie

[Thorondor]

Looking at that workbench now, Zombie, I have no doubt whatsoever how much easier it has become to clean it. Look at that sheen!

 

As for the cart, it could probably stand to get some more love from you. If you just keep pampering the workbench instead, in plain sight of it like that, it's going to get spiteful.

[Space Voyager]

It looks as if you threw a glass board over it! Niiiice!

[Zombie]

Looking at that workbench now, Zombie, I have no doubt whatsoever how much easier it has become to clean it. Look at that sheen! As for the cart, it could probably stand to get some more love from you. If you just keep pampering the workbench instead, in plain sight of it like that, it's going to get spiteful.

 

Um, the workbench isn't the thing getting cleaned often, it's the long table in the backroom which I painted in gray ployurethane. You know, the one with the boom box on it. I have no doubt that the workbench will be easy to clean as well, though I hardly ever do that because it's always getting used and dirty anyway.

 

Just like twins, the workbench and cart will get equal attention lest one feels neglected.

 

It looks as if you threw a glass board over it! Niiiice!

 

Yup! The clear marine polyurethane was pretty wet yet so that's why it looks so shiny. It's a semigloss finish so it'll dry a little dull which is perfect for a workbench (or the cart).

 

Well, I checked the finish on the workbench and cart today. The cart top is perfect in my opinion - nice and smooth. The workbench had some rough areas though which was a little disappointing. As a quick fix, I used a putty knife to carefully knock down the rough spots. You can't tell where I did this which is good. If I'm going to spray the cart top with a clear enamel yet I figure I can do the same to the workbench and that should provide a smooth surface without bubbles. Here's what everything looks like:

 

 

As you can see, both the cart and workbench have a pleasing finish. That should keep them looking nice for the rest of the year. Maybe. I hope.

 

- Zombie

[Thorondor]

Um, the workbench isn't the thing getting cleaned often, it's the long table in the backroom which I painted in gray ployurethane.

 

Oops, my mistake, Master Coater Zombie. Backroom table, The Gray, duly acknowledged.

 

I rest assured too of continued concord given your assurance of ongoing equality in treatment for workbench and cart alike.

[Space Voyager]

Sooner or later (praying for later) I'll be looking at this thread as a manual.But for now, I'm just reading.

[Zombie]

Sooner or later (praying for later) I'll be looking at this thread as a manual.

 

I wouldn't take this thread as a manual, just what I did and therefore YMMV (your mileage may vary). It's important to remember that you shouldn't get discouraged if something doesn't work out the way you expect. Try something different, or a different product, and consult with the experts at the paint store for their recommendations. While I'd love to have those guys at my beg and call every time I hit a snag, I usually try to resolve my problem first (which may entail watching a YouTube video or reading some forum posts elsewhere). Then try that, and if you are still coming up short, call in the cavalry. At least it shows you are putting in the effort.

 

I should mention that the two items mounted to the workbench are a vice (absolutely necessary) and a dual wheel bench grinder (got that mostly because it had a big 1-hp motor and was dirt cheap, but I do use it occasionally for metal working). The only thing I would want is a longer workbench top, but this is about the maximum size I can fit in the area so I have to live with it. Luckily there are other table tops in the area which are longer and I sometimes switch to them. The other thing I'd want is a bigger vice (bigger really is better in this case), but vices can get expensive fast as you go up in size.

 

- Zombie

[Zombie]

We had a few very nice days weather-wise the past week so I figured I should get back outside and do some maintenance on the greenhouse and a door threshold.

 

There were some tears forming along the upper strapping on the long sides of the greenhouse already last fall (which I haphazardly fixed) but they became longer after the strong winds and heavy snow of winter. First step was to remove the wooden straps (the ones I bleached in the fall) where the tears were happening, then scrape and bleach the back sides which were covered in dirt and mold and who knows what else. The plastic underneath the straps needed some attention too, so I bleached and rinsed the areas. When it dried sufficiently, I wiped the torn areas with isopropyl alcohol and taped the splits with a commercial grade mending tape (can't use regular clear packing tape outside as it'll only last a couple weeks at most due to the sun - this commercial variant is UV stabilized to handle the elements).

 

Did I stop there? Heck no! I also applied the tape to the tears from the inside of the greenhouse too, so It should be doubly-protected. After this the straps were mostly dry and ready to be reinstalled, but I went one step further. I cut an old piece of greenhouse plastic and wrapped the two sides and top with it, then screwed the slats down. The plastic should curtail the formation of mold and collection of dirt.

 

 

So the whole greenhouse didn't get this treatment, just the areas where the plastic was torn. I probably could have skipped the wrapping step, and heck, the bleaching as well as the plastic is nearly 7 years old and will get replaced next year anyway and all the straps will get replaced at that time too. But I considered this a fact finding mission and a dry run to improve the longevity as much as possible. (Years past, the plastic would last maybe 5 years at most, but I instituted a bunch of steps to minimize any issues which helped tremendously). The other issue I found is that the plastic covering the slats will get pulled into the wood so I might use washers the next time.

 

There was also a long tear (~15cm) in the roof of the greenhouse which I fixed yet again (the tear happened accidentally when some hanging plants were improperly moved on the pipe causing it to jump up on one end and poke through). This time though, I carefully got a piece of tape on the outside via the hole, then taped the thing from the bottom as usual.

 

 

You will notice one of the steps I employ to prevent tearing during installation and after time due to movement and friction: I wrap every connection to the hoops with layers of cotton batting/fiberfill and to secure that I use sisal binder twine. No pokie bits anymore!

 

One of the doors to the back area has a crummy threshold (whoever thought limestone was a good material for that must've been on crack). There are some loose chunks and crumbly bits which need to be fixed asap. First step in a threshold repair is a investigative scrape to find the loose bits, then clink the putty knife against the stone and listen for any hollow sounds. If you find hollow spots it needs to come up somehow - either prying the chunks up with a screwdriver (best) or smashing them to bits with a hammer.

 

 

On the right were some loose crumbly bits that were mostly on the surface but too deep to leave as is. To fix that, I mixed up a small batch of hydraulic cement and filled in those areas to be level. You can see that the cement is drying along the edges but a little wet in the middle. When I checked on it the other day, there were some small cracks which formed in the patch. I have no idea if this is good or bad yet, I'm going to caulk them and hopefully this will help.

 

On the left (under the piece of metal) are two conjoining areas where I located and pried up some big chunks of loose limestone. I could've patched that with hydraulic cement too, but I opted to try a different approach by gluing the chunks down with a Gorilla Glue-ish product. It's supposed to be able to handle the elements so that's why I wanted to try it. The stuff foams up a lot though, so I ended up putting 4 concrete blocks on it to keep the chunks from "floating" out of the hole.

 

So yesterday I scraped all the dried glue away and caulked just about everything on the threshold. It snowed for the first time in nearly a month today so I had to leave the thing rest a bit until I can get to it again. Hopefully we'll have a decent day this week where I can caulk any remaining cracks in it and then paint it (it'll be the same gray polyurethane I used on the floor in the back cooler, which, by the way, still looks fantastic after a few months of heavy use).

 

- Zombie

[Thorondor]

For industrial grade repairs dial ZOMBIE!

 

That's some proper insulation work right there. The greenhouse slats seem very well protected but I do agree with you that using some washers would be adviseable. And if one were to further nitpick (which I'm guessing is pointless as you mention this shall soon be replaced anyway) the screw heads are the one thing left exposed,so being prone to rusting at some point.

 

I do award extra cookie points for the thought you've given to the protection in the connections to the hoops as well.

 

On the other front, also not going to begrudge your experimentation with different surface fixes (hydraulic cement/glue) on that door threshold. It's a perfectly acceptable way to find out what works best.

 

The catch, of course, is we both know there's no real "fix" for limestone (), except actual replacement with, say, granite or cement tiles...

[Zombie]

For industrial grade repairs dial ZOMBIE!

 

That's some proper insulation work right there. The greenhouse slats seem very well protected but I do agree with you that using some washers would be adviseable. And if one were to further nitpick (which I'm guessing is pointless as you mention this shall soon be replaced anyway) the screw heads are the one thing left exposed, so being prone to rusting at some point.

 

Actually, I'm using ceramic coated decking screws to hold down the slats right now (downright expensive, but worth it). They've been on the greenhouse since 2013 and looking at the screws I took off the other day most look perfect except for a few that had a little rust on the threads. I purchased a bunch extra (see why it's a good idea to buy in bulk?) just in case I'd need them.

 

Funny thing is, back in the day we used regular black oxide drywall screws for the slats. They rusted pretty quick, but since we were replacing the plastic on the top & sides so frequently it didn't matter too much. Heck, we even replaced the slats back then. I might replace the slats anyway this time around even though they are green treated. They were cheap enough, and knowing what I know now I'll probably put some wood preservative on them for a little more protection. It might prevent them from warping too.

 

I'll have to take a head count on the number of washers I'd need. I could get them in stainless which would cost quite a bit, but the normal washers seem to hold up ok (we used washers to hold down a black plastic mesh cover for a little shading in the summer). Yeah, they rust eventually, but not horribly. Maybe I can get the stainless ones cheaper off the internet somewhere - I have time to research that yet.

 

On the other front, also not going to begrudge your experimentation with different surface fixes (hydraulic cement/glue) on that door threshold. It's a perfectly acceptable way to find out what works best.

 

The catch, of course, is we both know there's no real "fix" for limestone (), except actual replacement with, say, granite or cement tiles...

 

Well, limestone will hold up fairly decently if you apply a water sealant on it every other year or so and don't step on it too much. Unfortunately this is on a door we use quite a bit. It was never meant for this amount of foot traffic, water, ice, snow, salt and the elements. Replacing it would entail busting out the limestone and poring a concrete slab. Possible of course, but I just know if I'd try and tackle that with the limited tools and resources available that it would take a long time and the door would therefore be out of commission for a while. So that would be a job for a professional mason.

 

- Zombie

[Thorondor]

Ceramic coated screws - well then, hat's off to you, Zombie!

 

And, yes, stainless steel washers would be the way to go. Of course, if it makes more economical sense for you to use the regular sort instead, roll with it, provided they weather the elements long enough. If up to me, though, I confess I'd still go with stainless for the extended peace of mind.

 

On the subject of limestone - water sealant it is.

[Space Voyager]

This time though, I carefully got a piece of tape on the outside via the hole, then taped the thing from the bottom as usual.

 

How did you do that? I mean, via the hole bit?

 

You will notice one of the steps I employ to prevent tearing during installation and after time due to movement and friction: I wrap every connection to the hoops with layers of cotton batting/fiberfill and to secure that I use sisal binder twine. No pokie bits anymore!

 

Smart move, I did something similar to prevent tomato stakes from tearing through PVC roof during strong winds.

 

Actually, I'm using ceramic coated decking screws to hold down the slats right now (downright expensive, but worth it).

 

I don't think I ever saw ceramic coated screws, but definitely sounds like an awesome choice from a weather perspective!

 

Funny thing is, back in the day we used regular black oxide drywall screws for the slats. They rusted pretty quick, but since we were replacing the plastic on the top & sides so frequently it didn't matter too much.

 

DRYwall screws. Get it?! I too used them for the wrong purposes as I had quite some left over from the bathroom and toilet renovation (ceiling) and was reminded of the dryness of the drywall the hard way.

 

Anyway, have I told you already that you're not paid enough?

[Zombie]

How did you do that? I mean, via the hole bit?

 

Well, I cut a couple strips of tape and overlapped them a bit to form a big enough piece to bridge the gap. Mind you, I was on a ladder inside the greenhouse - so I took the piece of tape and pushed it through the tear in the plastic "roof" to the outside and carefully maneuvered it around till it covered the area of the tear. I then pushed my free hand through the tear and pressed down the tape on one side to adhere it, took my hand back down through the tear and pushed up against the plastic on the other side of the tear till it adhered to the tape (as best I could at least). With the outside of the gap bridged, I then ran pieces of tape over the tear from the bottom to make the patch more secure.

 

I don't think I ever saw ceramic coated screws, but definitely sounds like an awesome choice from a weather perspective!

 

Yeah, it's not really a new thing - they first appeared at the local hardware store maybe 8-9 years ago. The first iterations of it were kinda garbage, but as time went on they became better. I believe I first saw them being used on an episode of This Old House on PBS where they were installing a composite deck and needed a fastener that would last as long as the decking material. I'm sure that they are common enough now that you would be able to find them in your area. I guess it depends on how popular decks are in your area.

 

DRYwall screws. Get it?! I too used them for the wrong purposes as I had quite some left over from the bathroom and toilet renovation (ceiling) and was reminded of the dryness of the drywall the hard way.

 

Ugh, yes, I get it. Must be a common occurrence to use drywall screws for other purposes than attaching drywall itself. By the way, they make specific drywall screws for bathrooms and high humidity areas. They aren't ceramic coated, but come in a painted variety as well as a zinc electroplated type. I've been using the zinc type for a while (I actually used them to attach the moldings around the garage door in the back last year) and they seem to hold up quite well as long as they stay relatively dry (read: not submerged or constantly wet).

 

Anyway, have I told you already that you're not paid enough?

 

Probably. Anyway, maintenance to me is fun. I'd probably do it for free but alas, I need to earn a living somehow.

 

- Zombie

[Zombie]

Time to work on the inside of the greenhouse a little bit. Annuals and perennials will be arriving soon enough and I need to start setting things up for them. It's been chilly (but not freezing) here for the last week but inside the greenhouse it can get quite balmy if the sun is out and the doors closed (it helps I patched up all the tears as well).

 

So where do I start? The tables need a refresh badly. I stained them approximately 7 years ago and then put on a coat of clear marine grade spar polyurethane. Unfortunately that polyurethane didn't hold up and started chipping off taking the stain along with it in spots. It's not terrible, just very unsightly. First pic is from the center of the greenhouse and the second is the south side.

 

 

Why didn't I take a pic of the north side tables? They are very old and unpainted and will be replaced after the planting season is over. As you can see, the tables aren't terrible. The south side tables have a lot of cracking on them though (middle tables not so much because I replaced the tops in 2013-ish). And these pics are after scraping & wire brushing. Any big cracks are just on the first layer of plywood which can be repaired after priming.

 

The first goal is to cover the bare spots of wood. The second goal is to encapsulate any remaining loose clear polyurethane/stain. The third goal is to fill those small cracks and checks in the wood. That sounds like a job for my favorite latex primer. I have about a half a gallon (so 2 liters) left of the plain white primer, but I'm going to hold on to that for other projects. Instead, I got a brand new gallon tinted to a light grey. That should help with coverage issues. Some of the tables really didn't need much primer as the surface was sound, but I needed to fill in those small cracks which meant piling it on and sweeping the paint into the cracks leaving the rest of the surface a little "hazy" with only a very light coat. When I finished priming all the tables, I went back and brushed on another coat on the first table on the south side and the two closer tables in the middle (the ones on the left) before I ran out of time.

 

 

Pretty happy with the results to say the least. If I have time tomorrow, I'll put on another coat of primer on the other tables. Also those large cracks and checks need to be caulked which I may not get to due to the weather being cloudy (which means no excess heat in there except for residual heat from the ground).

 

I purchased two gallons of old (circa 2012) reddish floor polyurethane for nearly 50% off to use as a first coat (same type of paint I used on the back cooler floor and table in the back room except in a reddish). It's a win-win for both of us. The paint store is able to reduce it's inventory on rarely used items, and I get a quantity of paint to use for a steal. There's nothing wrong with it either - I had them shake it up and there were no skins at all. So I'll be using that for a first coat and touch-up. I purchased another newer gallon which I had color matched to the current color of the table tops to use as a final coat. Not sure when the final coat would be applied, but I assume I'll do that after I get the new table tops on the north side cut to size and primed maybe in late June-early July.

 

- Zombie

[Thorondor]

Don't take your eyes off him, ladies and gentlemen, or you'll bat an eyelash only to discover having been restored yourselves!

 

Yep, Zombie, you're at it again, undoing the effects of aging, turning the unsightly to the polished, scraping, brushing, coating all the while keeping costs in check.

 

Looking at the pics, you've made some really nice progress on paint alone, but I concur some cracks here and there are nastier, so I look forward to another adept demonstration of your caulking kung-fu.

[Zombie]

Looking at the pics, you've made some really nice progress on paint alone, but I concur some cracks here and there are nastier, so I look forward to another adept demonstration of your caulking kung-fu.

 

Ask and ye shall receive!

 

 

I started off by priming everything again. All those hairline cracks are really annoying because they don't fill in decently. I did cram as much paint as I could into them but they came back after it dried. I'm hoping I got enough into the cracks to coat the inside because then I could just pile on multiple coats of the red polyurethane to fill them up. There were just too many small cracks to try and caulk - it would take too much caulk and take way too much time. You have to know when to say "when".

 

For the center tables I caulked the bigger cracks, any knots and the screw holes. I really should have counter sank the screws when I installed the top, but I was under pressure to get the tables done. Oh well, gotta leave something for the next guy to do.

 

For the south tables I did the same thing, but the tops are secured with carriage bolts so I tried my best to caulk any of them which were below the surface of the wood. You can see the big long crack I caulked in the first table which turned out great. If you look to the left of that big crack you can see where I attempted to fill in some of the smaller cracks with caulk. While that worked, it just wasn't cost effective. Really, I'd need some thicker type of product which I could apply with a squeegee or broad knife. I'll have to think on that a bit.

 

I was able to do this work because the sun came out which helped to dry stuff quicker. Unfortunately I couldn't do any more painting because I had other jobs which I wanted to finish while the weather was somewhat nice (sunny, cool and windy). I made serious progress on that so now I have a little breathing room which I could dedicate to putting a first coat on. Depends on how busy it is on Saturday, and I can't do anything Sunday because it's Easter.

 

- Zombie

[Thorondor]

Suffice it to say you've still got the moves, and they be smooth, Zombie.

 

Seeing those cracks reappear after applying paint can get under one's skin sometimes so it's good you have the ability to know when to call it enough, devoting the time instead to further other more worthy pursuits.

 

Besides, I'm pretty confident you'll find the right way to make those slight imperfections you mention become downright negligible down the line.

 

Master of the Long Tables, thy return shall be awaited!

[Zombie]

As it always seems, when it gets busy I can't get much done. You know the deal, put out the fires and handle everything else another day. Anyhow, I did get into the greenhouse between projects and noticed that the caulk in some of the deeper cracks had shrunk a bit overnight. So I went over those again to make everything flush. I had about 1/4 tube of caulk left, and since I couldn't come up with a decent fix for the smaller cracks I figured I'd pile it on those small cracks on the first table just to finish off the tube.

 

 

I applied a little bit of caulk at the front edge of the table to keep that area smooth and dumped the rest in the middle where the myriad of small cracks were. Not only were there small cracks in the middle, but unbeknownst to me there were low spots too. So I kinda got lucky there - I was able to apply caulk to the areas that had lots of low spots and cracks, and whatever was left seemed ok (the table isn't even so water will drain off to the back left so that's where I left off). However, I gotta check to see if I have any more open tubes of caulk I could use up. If so, then I might just use it up on the remainder of low spots and cracks.

 

Not sure what is going to happen on Monday as I have a couple other projects that came up so we'll have to play it by ear to see what (if anything) can be accomplished.

 

- Zombie