Let's Paint!

[Thorondor]

Some things do merit preserving for posterity and you know you're deserving of that credit, Zombie.

 

Incidentally, temperatures over here have also taken a bit of a sudden dip, making yesterday's minimum temps become today's maximums, so that should tell you something.

 

Anyway, given the nice progress you've now reported you shouldn't fear being left out in the cold minding that door for too much longer now, no matter what the thermometer comes to display when you're at it.

[Zombie]

Just to side step here for a second. Maybe you guys remember that I was going to paint the frame and compressor for the back cooler. Well, I never did obviously, but it was on my mind for a rainy day. Anyhow, the cooler wasn't working a couple weeks ago so we had the refrigeration guys come over to take a look. Turns out the compressor was drawing way too many amps on startup which was blowing fuses and tripping the circuit breaker. Long story short, the whole thing: compressor, blower and condenser were all replaced. Here's what the new unit looks like:

 

 

So far, so good. I've been checking the temp continuously for the last few days and it seems to be holding at the correct value. The main thing is no more blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers. The other day I vacuumed around the new unit to remove the dust and installation debris. It's amazing that this only has one fan (as opposed to two for the old unit) and is probably half the size. It really moves the warm air around though. I used this to my advantage and painted that trim board (one coat of "primer" and one top coat).

 

 

Today I mostly did the caulking around the door. Used up one and a half tubes of caulk and still have a little I need to do yet. I was worried about it drying properly with the chilly temps at night and during the day, but thankfully it warmed up a few degrees today and was sunny. The caulk was actually skinning over between applying it and smoothing it with my finger so I don't think there will be any issues. Once all that caulking was done, I installed that trim board above the door.

 

 

I raised the trim piece about 1/16 of an inch off the door so that there will not be any rubbing going on. It looks like the left side of the door is sticking out from the frame, and you would be correct in pointing that out. I didn't want to close the door completely as the caulk wasn't fully dry around the threshold. In fact, I actually wired the storm door into the open position overnight to hopefully hasten the drying process. If everything dries overnight then I'll probably put the final coat of paint on the frame.

 

- Zombie

[Thorondor]

Success, Zombie: Compressor compressed!

 

It sure looks minimalist by comparison with the old unit and it's probably way more efficient consumption-wise.

 

So, once again you not only talked the talk you caulked the caulk. With profusion.

 

What really matters here in my book though is how you're taking all the right precautions - for drying/curing, leaving margins for things not to rub and such, yet maintaning insulation ability.

 

Now take it home, Mr. Smooth Operator!

[Zombie]

Today the weather was a lot nicer than the usual November day. It wasn't super warm or anything, in fact it was a tad chilly without a jacket but I'm not complaining. In the morning and early afternoon I had a few emergency projects I had to complete. After that it was all systems go for painting.

 

 

Looks very nice now. Still have to cut in with the wall color around the frame but that shouldn't take too long. And yes, I wired the storm door open again even though it was pretty much dry. The next project is to work on the window next to the door. It's not in terrible shape as it was replaced a few years ago... still needs some TLC as it's starting to go downhill. I started on that by scraping and sanding the sill plate, The caulk underneath the white frame was loose in areas so I made the executive decision to rip it all out and start from scratch. Glad I did because there was silicone caulk underneath the acrylic caulk. Nothing wrong with this normally, but the silicone caulk was starting to peel up a little so I didn't want to chance it.

 

 

And the cream colored frame below the white is not actually wood. No siree, it's some kind of compressed fiber board. What the hell, can't people use actual wood anymore? That fiberboard stuff just soaks up water like a sponge when it's outdoors. Well, this stuff wasn't completely falling apart it was just a little warped so I decided to keep it. The warped areas needed to be fixed so I pounded in some 2" finishing nails which stiffened things up.

 

 

So I'm still not sure I want this stuff outside. I might take a rummage around in the garage. A few years ago when I put the molding around the back garage door I know I had some leftover. Not sure how much, but maybe it'll be enough for the window. I need to check on that tomorrow.

 

- Zombie

[Thorondor]

That's fancy with milk chocolate right there, Zombie.

 

Turned out great. With your paint job it becomes invisible to the eye just how much doing it took "under the hood" to bring it all together in this fashion. The very hallmark of a job well done.

 

Liking your approach to the window too - hiding stuff (silicone caulk / acrylic caulk business) under the proverbial rug would just be asking for trouble. Dealing with it now before you're forced to handle it in worse weather is indeed the ticket.

 

Fully replacing that degrading pseudo-wood board may be taking it "all in" a tad much, but I guess it all hinges on you having a substitute handy or not. Otherwise, insulate and tempt fate?

[Zombie]

Fully replacing that degrading pseudo-wood board may be taking it "all in" a tad much, but I guess it all hinges on you having a substitute handy or not. Otherwise, insulate and tempt fate?

 

Replacing a cheap board that's starting to show some degradation is certainly not taking it too far. I mean, if it goes to pot in a couple years I'll end up replacing it anyway. Doesn't really matter in this case as the molding I had in the garage was a little bit too tall and too thick. I could probably make it work but it's not worth the effort.

 

So I was at work today doing some delivery, parking lot cleanup (leaves from the trees make a mess and there were some weeds that needed to be removed before winter) and bleaching buckets, but did have a chance to mess around with the window for a little bit. First priority was to carefully remove the old brick molding from around the window. There was a lot of caulk holding it in place (besides the few rusted out finishing nails) so I had to scrape that loose first. The reason why I did this carefully was so that I could take an accurate measurement for the new PVC molding. Once the molding was off, I removed the old nails, scraped some more and painted the frame underneath (I'm always amazed this never gets done, probably because carpenters are not painters).

 

 

There's a pretty big space between the window casing and the brick. There are 5 options to address this:

1. Caulk - but it would take a fair whack of it in multiple "coats" to fill that up properly.
   
2. Bondo - certainly an option though it's messy and would be on the pricier side.
   
3. Water Putty - another option, cheaper than bondo and less messy but has issues sticking in place if water gets behind.
   
4. Great Stuff expanding foam - probably the quickest fix. Doesn't have issues with water because the space will be filled completely. Can't drive nails or screws into it as it will not hold.
   
5. Do nothing? Fill with poly fiberfill? Cheapest, but doesn't fix anything and you run the risk of making the wood decay faster.
   

I'm thinking Great Stuff. Don't have any on hand currently, but I need to go to the hardware store anyway for finishing nails.

 

- Zombie

[Thorondor]

Repairs you want not too cheap. Besides, with Zombie you're top of the heap!

 

Plenty of wood spent on the door frame already is all I was hinting at. So, true full replacement fix or... "camouflage" repair work it is.

 

On the Window front, you're reaching new heights in gap filling. The options, as presented, have me leaning towards your favoured candidate.

 

Only expected potential downside is toxicity - if that expanding foam is like some we've got here it can mess with your throat, even outdoors.

 

Thy call!

[Zombie]

Only expected potential downside is toxicity - if that expanding foam is like some we've got here it can mess with your throat, even outdoors.

 

Your expanding foams might have a different formulation or ingredients as I've never had any issues with smells or burning with Great Stuff. If I'm standing at a normal distance away I don't smell anything tbh. If I was right up next to it with my nose in the stuff, then maybe. But I never get that close to the foam when I'm working with it as it's difficult to clean up if you get it on you.

 

So yeah, I ended up going the foam route. Seemed to do a good job filling in all the big cracks and voids,

 

 

You can't really see it, but the crack at the lower left was about 1 1/2 inches wide and the foam didn't bat an eye filling that up with just expansion.

 

Oh, and here's a piece of advice for cleanup. Read the directions on the can first for what will work, and do not start any filling without having that solvent on hand and nearby. Once the foam dries, you have to mechanically remove it from your skin or let it fall off naturally neither of which are nice. On the Great Stuff can it says acetone will remove it when uncured. Now, I didn't have any acetone, but I do have lacquer thinner which contains acetone and it worked fine. And if you want to stand a chance of using the rest of the can at a later date, stick the straw, nozzle and spray orifice directly into the solvent ASAP. Acetone works surprisingly quick and painless to remove all of the residual foam in those parts. Just an FYI.

 

- Zombie

[Space Voyager]

If you buy the foam cleaning spray you just twist the straw onto it and spray it through. Quite handy. Bought it and only used it once... Otherwise I noticed that the foam is easiest to clean if you let it dry completely. If you start removing it pronto, you better have that solvent ready, true. Though if it falls on parquet, I wouldn't recommend solvents.

[Thorondor]

Haven't needed to use such foam in a good while so it's quite possible there are variants that are less offensive to your airways now.

 

Last time I dabbled with it not much thought was given to cleanup as throw-away gloves were at hand and the can was expected to be used in its entirety.

 

Still, nice to know tips from both of you - thanks!

[Zombie]

If you buy the foam cleaning spray you just twist the straw onto it and spray it through. Quite handy. Bought it and only used it once...

 

Didn't even know there even was such a thing. I still think the solvent method I mentioned is cheaper and easier to clean the parts (plus it works on the nozzle on the foam can too).

 

Otherwise I noticed that the foam is easiest to clean if you let it dry completely. If you start removing it pronto, you better have that solvent ready, true.

 

Oh wise sage, please elaborate on how dried foam is easier to clean. In my limited experience, the stuff sticks like glue to most everything once it's cured. The only way I've found to get that off is removing it with a very sharp knife. Depends what surface you are trying to clean it off of too I'd imagine.

 

Though if it falls on parquet, I wouldn't recommend solvents.

 

I wouldn't either, although acetone is quite tame in terms of leaving permanent marks behind. I'd never, ever, start applying foam without covering up anything it could stick to and dry. Flooring might need two layers: canvas below and plastic above.

 

Anyhow, back to painting! After cutting off the excess foam squeezeout, I primed those areas and caulked around the entire window. I also added some foam strips to the top of the casing as it was just a little too low.

 

 

Since I still had some daylight left, I cut and attached the new PVC brick molding and applied the caulk liberally to say the least.

 

 

Apologies, it was getting pretty dark out when that pic was taken and I didn't have the flash on to save battery power. The temps were not too bad the day I did this, but the humidity was very high (~90%) so the caulk wasn't drying much. Even 24 hours later the caulk was still soft in most places. Painting can't take place if the caulk isn't partially cured so I just did some more caulking instead, this time at the upper left and right corners where the molding meets and the part above the flashing.

 

 

I finally cleaned off the roof with all the deconstruction crap on it, the nice thing about that is I could just throw it off the roof into the driveway below into a safe spot away from tires. There was pieces of the old window up there yet - shows just how lazy workmen can be. Nobody seems to take pride in not only getting the job done, but getting it done right. As I was throwing stuff off the roof I found a couple pieces of aluminum framing for the storm door - one for the left side and the other was for the bottom. Stupid me should have taken a before picture so I'd remember what those pieces were for.

 

So now the issue was trying to install those pieces. See, since I forgot about them I didn't allow any room for them to fit as the tolerances have to be snug. I thought about it for a bit and the only way was to take off the left side frame and shift it over 1/4 inch, reattach and recaulk. Was a fair bit of work, obviously, but needed to be done.

 

 

I attached the left side molding and everything fit perfect. Now the issue was the molding for the threshold. The first problem was that there wasn't any room for it under the door. Well, there was a little room, but the rubber sweep would cause the door to stick pretty tight. So I'd need to shift the molding under the door down by 1/4 inch. Off came the molding. Commence scraping of old and new caulk away from the bottom to make some room. Nope, still too tight. The molding needs to be cut down by 1/4 inch. Ok, so I thought I'd better check to see if the molding would even fit properly with that change.

 

 

No can do, it doesn't seat far enough back to match up with the side molding. Which means the molding underneath needs to be thinner by 1/4 inch as well. So I'm going to have to do some cutting on that molding to get it the perfect size. That's where I'm at for now.

 

- Zombie

[Thorondor]

Talk about a snag, Zombie.

 

After all that work to make everything fit snugly those pieces of aluminum framing show up to demand a reset. It's always unpleasant when you have to undo stuff you've just squared off like that and waste some newly put in material to boot.

 

Well, there were no two ways about it at this stage.

 

Window looking good. Door framing redone on the left side. Let's get to the bottom of it!

[Space Voyager]

Oh wise sage, please elaborate on how dried foam is easier to clean. In my limited experience, the stuff sticks like glue to most everything once it's cured. The only way I've found to get that off is removing it with a very sharp knife. Depends what surface you are trying to clean it off of too I'd imagine.

 

FINALLY someone recognises my wisd... wait, was that... ehm, don't wanna know.

 

I found the hardened foam to come off whole and without a trace quite a few times, especially from smooth or dusty surfaces. When I tried to wipe it off wet, I ended up smearing it over an even larger surface. As this was parquet, I resorted to scraping it off very delicately (using the glass-ceramic plate cleaner) later, when the smear hardened. It went ok, but slow.

 

I wouldn't either, although acetone is quite tame in terms of leaving permanent marks behind. I'd never, ever, start applying foam without covering up anything it could stick to and dry. Flooring might need two layers: canvas below and plastic above.

 

YES, but with what I was doing, there was no chance in hell any foam would fall to the ground. I just forgot to tell this to the foam, so it fell anyway. Since then, I too cover up every damn thing.

[Zombie]

It's been cold here the last few days, in fact, a couple days ago I wore jeans for the first time since early May so that's gonna tell you something. Yesterday the weather was warmer 7-8C but cloudy and very windy. I checked out the weather forecast and there wasn't any rain predicted nor freezing temps overnight so I decided to paint the frame around the window.

 

 

Looks a lot better now. I also painted over the primed areas with the normal caramel colored wall paint including above the door and next to the frame around it. No pics of this as it was getting dark out.

 

Hopefully I can cut that lower frame board for the door today, prime it and install it.

 

- Zombie

[Thorondor]

If Zombie has his say, window makeover remains underway, even if the weather's not that nice to stay in play.

 

Speaking of caramel-colored - it's fitting to say it's gotten that more yummy with the new coat you've applied.

 

On the more general subject of little painting tips, and if I may, here's one I accidentally came across today from a certain handyman. I'll let the "special guest" speak for himself.

 

[Zombie]

Well, I finally got around to cutting that board down the other day. The timeframe really didn't matter as the weather is rather unpredictable in November so I'll get it installed when mother nature cooperates. I hope I can get around to "priming" it and painting it with a first coat on Monday... because I can do it inside I can get it to dry properly. After installation, I'm going to have to caulk the screw holes and pray for one nice day to touch up. If need be I'll install it next year. Remind me to take pics or it didn't happen.

 

There was a somewhat nice day last week where I was able to touch up some scrapes and cracks along the driveway in back. I needed to get that addressed before the snow starts flying. Still needs another coat, so here again, fingers crossed.

 

It's been busy at work otherwise so I've been trying to get some of the other little projects on my to-do list crossed off. Got the boards in the greenhouse put away and the place swept out but the next day wreaths and holiday greens came in so it's back to being a mess. Funny how that works out. Set up the wreath display by the front door on Tuesday and on Friday I set up a shelf on the shorter 2-tier table in the backroom to hold all our plastic bags for wrapping plants when it's below freezing. Also one of our hooks on a pole for taking down hanging plants in the showroom broke so I devised something which fixes it - how long the fix lasts is another matter.

 

- Zombie

[Zombie]

Time to get this door done! I got the board for under the storm door painted yesterday evening so it was nice and dry today. The depth of the board was perfect, spot on in fact. Turns out I didn't really need to cut anything off the height except for maybe a saw blade width, I filled in the extra space with caulk so it shouldn't matter in the long run. Took the main door off the hinges and set that outside for the time being as it was too tight in a couple spots.

 

 

I'll consider that complete. There's still some things I'd like to do yet such as caulking the small space between the aluminum drip plate and the wood, putting wood preservative on the bottom, top and side of the wood door, painting the wood and new caulk under the door and putting in plexiglass panels in the storm door to replace the glass etc. I'll do that if the weather cooperates and if I get the time.

 

So it looked to me like the wood door was rubbing on the bottom frame. I sanded it pretty heavily with 50 grit sandpaper and reinstalled the door. Better, but it was sticking in the side too. Quite a bit of wood needed to be removed so I used the rotary rasp "file" bit for the drill first, then sanded the rough spots flat with 36 grit sandpaper (this grit is probably my favorite as it makes quick work of rough spots). Anyhow, took a pic of the side after the rasping and sanding was complete.

 

 

Hope you can make out the area I worked on - it's the lighter wood in the middle of the pic and a couple inches above that. No more sticking anymore so it's easy to open and close! The final issue I addressed was the strike plate for the door. The door would sometimes latch and lock properly and other times not so much. Kinda dangerous to have a door which is maybe unlocked sometimes so this needed to be fixed. Turns out the strike plate was a bit too high. When I took the plate off, I noticed the top screw was maybe an inch long and the lower screw was about a half inch. No wonder it wasn't latching properly, you can't use short screws like that. I used some 2" drywall screws which did a better job of securing it. I also used a piece of that foam sheet as a backer when installing.

 

 

Probably isn't the original strike plate for the door either so that was another reason why it didn't latch. At least now the door latches and locks properly and doesn't stick. And of course the storm door is back in service - hopefully it'll last another 42 years.

 

- Zombie

[Space Voyager]

36 grit sandpaper (this grit is probably my favorite as it makes quick work of rough spots)

 

I'll bet, this is almost a wood file!

[Thorondor]

Be not surprised when Zombie sets things flush; it's alright then if you gush.

 

Quite a lot of fine tuning required overall, but it was worth it given how much you've found out about what was not as should be in the first place (like those misfit screws) and straightened stuff out in the process.

 

That snap you took of your sanding is very clear and it does give a good inkling of how much you had to lean into it. Multiple passes did the trick to smooth things over nicely.

 

Locked and loaded for another four decade stretch though? Fuhgeddaboudit.

[Zombie]

I got caught up today in the afternoon and had a little time so I figured I could start on the frame around the back garage door of the small garage. It needs to be replaced as there were some rotten spots which were too big to fill with water putty or bondo. I know I took a before pic of this a couple months ago, but I had the camera out so shoot me. Besides, I don't want you to have to scroll back 3 pages of posts to find it.

 

 

There's a rotten spot in the middle of the top frame and another spot to the left of it (you can probably see something's funky under the paint). As always, whenever you start a destructor session you should always take a few measurements before you start and then be as careful as you can removing the old wood so as not to create more work for yourself later. Taking the old frame off was a bit problematic as some spots were really attached good while other areas just crumbled apart into dust. There were some hidden rotten spots on the back part of the frame so I was glad I was completely replacing it with PVC molding. Whoever attached the frame the last time did a really good job as they used galvanized finishing nails. I also did a good job caulking and painting it 20+ years ago as I found intact pieces of caulk backer rod which filled up some of the deeper cracks. Here's what it looked like with the frame gone (apologies, pic didn't turn out very good but it's good enough).

 

 

The black area behind the frame is tar paper if you are wondering. There was only a small spot which came off which is why I said to be careful removing old wood. I decided on cutting the new piece of PVC molding for the top frame first as it was the limiting factor for how high the sides had to be. I didn't start nailing it in as I wanted to dry fit the whole thing together first, but the issue was how do I measure the sides with the top piece not there or loosely fit... I ended up using some C-clamps to clamp the top to the aluminum flashing which then allowed me to accurately guesstimate the length of each side. I say guesstimate because there's a bit of guessing involved if you can't get the tape measure directly to the top of the miter cut and then if the pavement on the ground is uneven too. I kinda worked out the maximum length it could be, then backed that off by 1/4 to 1/8 of an inch so it wasn't super tight which seemed to work in the end. The sides were very tight, but allowed me just a little bit of movement to create a compression fit between the sides and the top. Here's what the thing looked like dry fitted together:

 

 

Turned out good. There's a little bit of space between the right frame and the top miter cuts but I think that's because of the aluminum flashing which may have gotten squashed behind - I'll need to investigate that closer. Didn't want to start attaching anything as it is going to be below freezing tonight and the caulking might not cure. Tomorrow it's supposed to be warmer so I'm looking to get this wrapped up.

 

- Zombie

[Thorondor]

Most corteous of you to save us the rewind web-surf with the new before snap, Zombie.

 

Funky business on the spot mentioned is quite clear. And, of course, you've then verified just how touch and go things were upon removal.

 

Your following pic is slightly off-focus but it's at least good enough to make out the tar paper you speak of.

 

I'm liking the way you've got the PVC molding fitting already. Taking measured steps like this is the ticket. Carry on!

[Zombie]

Yesterday was a tad chilly and windy but at least above freezing... 42F or 5-6C. That's not gonna stop me from painting, as I can apply down to 35F (2C). I decided I should paint the raw wood behind the old brick molding for a little protection and while I was at it I painted all the areas I scraped along the frame.

 

 

It was taking forever to dry (probably a combination of low temps, high humidity and unmodified paint) so I had to wait a while. In the mean time I pre-drilled the molding to accept the finishing nails. When the paint dried sufficiently I started to install the new brick molding. Everything had to be recaulked which used up just over two tubes: 3/4 tube of gray (my last tube of this color) 1 full tube of white (last tube of this color) and about 1/4 tube of tan (last tube of this). So I forget, is this Caulkpocalypse #4 or #5? One thing is for sure, I need to get some more caulk!

 

 

For some reason, nobody ever caulked the crack between the aluminum flashing and the board above it so I had to do that to prevent things from getting worse during the winter. Anyhow, today was a lot warmer - probably the last nice day till spring which was perfect for painting. I was right, everything dried so quick I was able to put on a second coat on the new molding. Then I cleaned up the garage a little bit as it was disaster since summer.

 

 

Don't ask me what those two spots are on the pic, maybe dust on the lens? I'll try and get a better pic sometime. The garage looks so inviting now. Funny how a new paint job and a cleaning changes everything. As for the soft wood to the left and right of the door along the ground... dunno what to do there. Just about the only fix I can do now is to screw on a piece of plywood over the top. But I have to search for something suitable.

 

Oh and for a change of pace how about some pics of our old Toro 1132 snowblower purchased circa 1982:

 

 

It's a beast. Back in the day when I first started work in 1988, I remember using this to blow snow over the owners garage into the neighbors yard. It was pretty powerful and saw a lot of use over the years. I didn't use it much in 2019 and 2020 as we had a snow removal service do most areas. But these guys refused to do our sidewalks saying their skid steer was too big so they would have to come back with a different crew which would cost more. I was going to get this old machine serviced (clean the carb, oil change, pump up the tires etc) but bossman wanted to get a new one. Really!?! I'm not going to say no to that. So we got the new machine today:

 

 

Not as big or as wide as the old one, but just as powerful. Can't wait to see how far this thing throws the snow.

 

- Zombie

[Space Voyager]

Snowblower... That would come in handy. Twice or three times a year. Than again, that would rob me of the morning exercise. There is no greater joy than getting up an hour earlier to clean the 80-100m2, with the addition of the plow dam that usually gets added from the street just before I want to leave for work. Ok ok, perhaps there is some joy even bigger , but I wouldn't want to have an extra machine laying around whole year for those two occasions. Naturally, if the area was larger, it changes everything quickly...

 

Anyway, the frame looks awesome. Pro work. Sorry for the repetitiveness of my responses, but that is YOUR fault.

[Thorondor]

What a difference a day makes... when Zombie things in hand takes!

 

I'm joining SV on the nod of lavish approval; I mean just look at that change from first to third pic. What a refresh, on the doorway and inside. Only the chipped bits at ground level still denounce the ravages of time.

 

Congrats on the new red devil of a snowblower - but remember not to get too carried away with your trial runs as it can fast become a bury or be buried snowed-in world out there.

[Zombie]

We had our first measurable snowfall Sunday into Monday. It wasn't a lot, just a couple inches (~5cm) so I got out our smaller snowblower (not the new one, sorry). After using it to clear the driveway in the back, the sidewalk and part of the parking lot I identified some things which needed to be fixed. The chute hasn't worked properly in a couple years - it'll go side to side no problem but it was stuck in one position for the up and down. So you know me with destructor sessions... I didn't get a before pic, but there were a lot of rusty nuts, bolts, washers, connectors and the chute itself had specks of rust forming. Naturally I took the whole thing apart.

 

I couldn't find replacement carriage bolts in my hardware stockpile so I had to reuse the old ones (and the nut+lock washer combo too). I just used a wire cup brush attachment for the drill to mechanically remove as much the rust scale and dust then used some rust reformer spray paint as a primer and some Rust Oleum Professional black spray as the top coat. The lower part of the chute was made of steel so I did the same thing as there were areas around the connections where there was rust forming. The snow was sticking badly to the inside of the chute (probably due to the rough spots from rust) so a new coat of paint should do wonders. I even sprayed the inside top part of the chute which is plastic as there were some rough spots where gravel or stones were kicked up against it causing dings and scrapes (I lightly sanded the plastic first to remove the high spots). Of course, once you try to put the thing back together you are going to mess up the paint job on the connectors so I sprayed over that again. Even sprayed a little bit on the inside (not too much as we are going to be replacing the rubber flappers on it this year).

 

 

Needless to say, the chute works perfectly again and I even took the time to regrease it so it turns smooth. There's a little overspray on the red plastic, but I'll clean that up with lacquer thinner so you'll never even know I made a boo-boo. The muffler cover is looking rather dull and the screws are rusty on it so I might fix that next summer. So yeah, just a quickie half day project.

 

- Zombie