Let's Paint!

[Thorondor]

Don't dread the rot for Zombie falters not, ever with a solid grasp on the task ahead!

 

Very nice fitting job with the wood stacking just level as needed. Once again it is shown it always pays off to keep spare bits around instead of just throwing apparently ill-fitting stuff away.

 

I find the little custom shim on the left side a little concerning. You should be careful when driving down the screws there or it might crack.

 

Hope you nail it.

[Zombie]

Well, I soaked the blocking and threshold replacement board in that boiled linseed oil + paint thinner mix yesterday. The shim and right side piece were small enough to be completely submerged in the paint can while the other two pieces were too tall and stuck out a bit. However, due to capillary action of the wood, it drew up the mix into the boards about halfway so by flipping it around I got full coverage anyway. Getting them to dry was another story though, as they were soaked through and through. I put them out in the sun for a while and that seemed to help a little as the outer surfaces were dryish, but the inside was still pretty wet. I ended up carefully placing them on the compressor for the back cooler and letting it sit on that for about an hour. Between the heat from the compressor and the fans, I think it dried sufficiently to paint but only a few sides.

 

 

Should be dry today and I'll paint the other side if I get time. BTW, I'll pre drill holes for the screws when I attach everything together so hopefully no splitting of shims.

 

Since I had the boiled linseed oil mix out, I put a few coats on the threshold (and blocking underneath as best I could). I really ladled it out on the soft spots as it just soaked away instantly. That should be protected now, and I'll try to put a coat of latex on it today too.

 

Yesterday I cleaned out my little blue plastic paint pail with used screws from the greenhouse. A lot of them were in pretty good shape yet so I'll probably use those to attach the threshold piece. Like I said before: waste not, want not.

 

Before I forget, here's a pic of the back garage door for the shed:

 

 

So the brick molding is going to be replaced on that soon. It gets a lot of weather back there because it faces the alleyway and snow piles up against the sides in the winter. At some point I'll need to address the decay at the bottom (maybe flashing and replace a piece of the siding).

 

- Zombie

[Thorondor]

Who would've said there's nothing like a good soaking for wood longevity? Zombie, apparently.

 

Kidding aside, it will absolutely pay off in the long run as the boards will stand the test of time, from weathering to insect depredations, far better.

 

As for restoring things around the back garage door - oh, my - that's going to take some doing alright. All evidence supports you do need to think about flashing.

[Zombie]

Before I start, I'd just like to reiterate that painting/fixing things isn't my #1 priority, nor do I focus on it exclusively everyday. I have other responsibilities and try to get those done first, any time that's left over I'll work on this stuff maybe an hour or two depending on weather or workload. And I don't rush through it just to get it done either, if the bossman is paying me to do it he expects I'll do a good job so I have to cross my t's and dot my i's.

 

Anyhow, had a little time in the late afternoon to do some work on the door again. First thing was to install the 1" piece of wood to the threshold. I played around with the orientation some more and got it to fit a little bit tighter in the front so I went with that. Before anything though, I caulked the wall and the wood joint, then put the wood into place and then the blocking underneath. With the wood somewhat secure I then predrilled some holes, countersunk them and put in some screws. The bigger piece of blocking on the right did split a little bit, but not bad. The main thing is that this board is super secure now - it's not going anywhere. There was absolutely zero play on it when I tried to shift it. So I'm confident that this will last a lot longer.

 

After the board was secure, I used up the rest of the bondo from my little side project this summer by filling in the soft spots and the hole at the left.

 

 

If you are wondering why there are a couple small holes in the side of the replacement board it's because I pre-fitted the bottom molding. The piece of flashing on the left was sticking out so I ground it down with my trusty rotary file bit for the drill and now the molding fits better. So I pre drilled the molding and the side of the threshold so it's ready to go.

 

I decided to start deconstructing the left side board so I can install the new piece next week. Had to get out the big crowbar as my little ones didn't seem to have enough leverage for some reason. Turns out, some idiot installed the side boards with finishing nails and roundheaded screws which were countersunk and filled with putty. I mean yo, what the hell is wrong with you? Needless to say, I had a heck of a time trying to get that board off and ended up destroying it. I wasn't about to make the same mistake on the other side so I dug out the putty from the holes and removed the screws there. Here's one culprit:

 

 

Kinda good looking screws if you ask me, nice and shiny yet. Might keep these. Anyhow, once the board was off, the wood and brick behind it was unpainted so I put a heavy coat of paint on them for some protection (with that mistint greenish stuff). Might caulk a few areas to keep the mortar from falling out but it's mostly solid (could have been a lot worse with me prying around back there with the big crowbar chowdering everything up).

 

 

So an eventful afternoon of fun in the sun, right? Well, it wasn't too bad. I'd much rather be doing this than cleaning toilets. At the end of the day progress was made and that's all that matters.

 

The next step is to remove the board on the right, paint and caulk behind there and also paint the top board above the door. Then I need to sand the bondo areas flat, caulk the screw holes and paint with that tan solid color stain. Then it's time to attach the new boards, caulk and put on the new frame for the screen door.

 

- Zombie

[Thorondor]

Good job with that threshold jigsaw, Zombie. Came together quite well!

 

Needless to say this is the sort of outcome you get when the prep work is done right. You put in the time beforehand to reap the rewards upon actual execution. Learn it from the pro, kids.

 

Moving to the side board part of things, luckily you're not the hot-headed type, or that stunt with the nailing fun and countersunk roundheaded screws might have ended with the culprit party looking at a crowbar being waved around in a not too enjoyable distance from one's head.

 

So, all told, a few scrapes and bruises on the materials themselves is nothing to write home about. Staying on point and getting the task done is what it's all about.

[Zombie]

So I couldn't really work on the door yesterday as I had to cut flowers and try to put them away (back cooler is out of commission due to bad contacters or a bad compressor too early to tell - all I know is that it's on a 20A circuit and it's constantly tripping because it's actually drawing 35A... big problem). Today was also quite busy and the weather was unsettled - it misted on and off most of the afternoon. That kinda put a crimp in my plans but I worked around it the best I could.

 

I sanded the bondo areas on the threshold somewhat level and then pulled off the board on the right side of the door and painted behind it and then the threshold.

 

 

I would have liked to cut the new boards and install them but the weather was so iffy I didn't want to even attempt it. As it was, the paint I put on just barely dried. It'll have to wait. No problem though, I think I need to address the space between the framing and the brick. I'm thinking of using caulk backer rod to fill the gap then caulk over it. But this might change as I don't know how wide the crack is in relation to the thickness of the backer rod.

 

- Zombie

[Thorondor]

I see the weather is starting to get moody on you already, Zombie. It was a good move not to push onwards. You'd just be banging your head against the wall afterwards.

 

I'm really liking how that threshold panned out - pretty great fitting on your part.

 

As for the filling the gap bit it feels like it's going to take a generous amount of that caulk backer stuff.

[Zombie]

Well, more unsettled weather today again, must be in a rut as it's fine in the morning but when 2:00pm rolls around it suddenly starts to rain. Not heavily, but just enough to mess things up. I soldier on as always because I want to get this done sooner rather than later. First job was to fill the gap between the brick and the wood of the frame - I used some of that tubular foam caulk backer rod (hopefully you can make it out in the upcoming pic). Then I emptied a couple partial tubes of white caulk into some areas of the brick where it was a little loose. And since I had some water putty left from last year when I painted at old bossman's house, I decided I'd use that up and pushed it into the big areas at the bottom of the brick.

 

 

I was tempted to caulk over the caulk backer rod but it was pretty tight in the crevice so I decided against it. You can't see it from the pics, but any areas where the crack was larger I jammed smaller pieces of rod behind it. The thing that I noticed today was that the wood frame of the door is about 1/4 inch higher than the brick. That's how it should be with rough brick jutting out, but that also means you can't get the board close enough to the brick. I kinda want to fill that crack as much as possible so it doesn't take so much caulk so I had to think on that for a little while until I came upon a solution.

 

Remember when I showed how to make smaller boxes from bigger ones? I posted a picture of a newly opened box of carnations, which I'll post again here.

 

 

Ok, so some flowers are secured in the box with a cardboard spacer underneath the strap to prevent it from digging into the flower stems which could cause them to break. That's how carnations, mini carnations and alstromeria is packed. Other flowers have a foam pad underneath the strap, and I know that pad is about 1/4 inch thick. See where I'm going with this? So I knew I had a small stockpile of them somewhere for emergency situations. Took me a while to find them in the garage, and when I checked how they would work against the brick it was perfect. How do you attach foam to brick though? I had a can of spray adhesive handy and that seemed to do the trick.

 

 

I didn't put foam at the bottom as the caulk and water putty didn't dry yet (due to the humidity). Since I still had a little time left, I cut the boards for the sides and put one in place just so you can get an idea of what it will look like when finished.

 

 

I need a little gap between the board and the door because weatherstripping has to go in there yet. I'm not sure what the dimensions of the stuff I'll need so I guess that means I'm off to the hardware store tomorrow. Luckily that's right down the block.

 

- Zombie

[Thorondor]

Thinking outside the box, starting from within, Zombie takes the win!

 

Just look at that rabbit you just took out of your hat - works like a charm and perfectly flush. Glued foam spacers, who would've thunk. Well, you did and it sealed the deal so to speak.

 

And that list pic, deliberately or not, masterfully nails the framing of a before and after: degraded and haphazardly nailed board side by side with its fresh-faced well treated replacement.

[Zombie]

Today we got in fresh flowers and a rose bouquet box which has the foam spacer under the strap. Took a pic so you know what it looks like normally.

 

 

So I got an extra foam spacer out of that to use for the door. I also raided the delivery van and found about 4 more in there too. I'm gonna have to start saving them again! Anyhow, I cut those spacers down a bit and used the pieces to fill in the rest of the brick which worked out great.

 

Before I planned on going to the hardware store, I checked in the workbench and lo and behold I had 1 1/2 rolls of weatherstripping in there. Cool, didn't have to make a special trip! I think I purchased an extra roll of the stuff back in December of 2020 when I replaced the storm windows in the back room. With the weatherstripping in-hand I applied it to the right side board. Then I closed the door and put the board against the door snugly. To keep the board in place temporarily, I reused 3 old finishing nails and pounded them in. Same thing for the left.

 

 

Tomorrow (if I have time and the weather cooperates) I'll finish it off by predrilling some holes for screws, countersink the hole and caulk the heads in. I also need to caulk the crack where the side boards meet the top board and also the crack between the board and brick. After that I'll reinstall the old top board (still good yet) and install a new bottom board from the cutoff side pieces. It's all downhill from there, paint the curved top board on the outside and install the new frame for the screen door.

 

- Zombie

[Space Voyager]

Ah, improvisation, the mother of success. If that is not a proverb, it should be. How do you plan to do the final finish at the outer edge of the boards, where there's a gap between the wall and boards? Also, those boards seem extremely close to the door knob. Is that an issue?

[Zombie]

How do you plan to do the final finish at the outer edge of the boards, where there's a gap between the wall and boards?

 

Caulk the crack and then the smaller wooden pieces I painted go over the top which is the frame for the screen door.

 

Also, those boards seem extremely close to the door knob. Is that an issue?

 

Yeah it's a close fit. The doorknob still turns, you just can't get your whole hand around it. Is it an issue? There's a very remote possibility it could be if you were on the roof and the door blew shut and it was icy. But the screen door goes on the outside which would prevent ice. Nobody really goes on the roof except myself or the occasional workman. If either of us would get stuck up there (say the door blew shut and locked itself), you could stomp your feet on the roof and someone would show up. Or just wait a little bit until someone comes out of one of the doors below and flag someone down. But if the door isn't locked, you just need to grab the knob from the top and bottom and turn and it;ll open.

 

- Zombie

[Space Voyager]

Yeah it's a close fit. The doorknob still turns, you just can't get your whole hand around it.

 

Ah, so it's a rarely used door (kinda makes sense, leading to the roof...), no problem than.

 

THOUGH, knowing you, I envision a greenhouse on that roof in a year or two!

[Zombie]

Ah, so it's a rarely used door (kinda makes sense, leading to the roof...), no problem than.

 

Yeah, it's more of an emergency exit type of door. I do go out on the roof a few times a year though, to clean out the gutters, remove any toys from the neighbor kids and to check to see if anything needs caulking or fixing.

 

THOUGH, knowing you, I envision a greenhouse on that roof in a year or two!

 

Not a greenhouse really. I've been after bossman to put on an addition where the roof is as it's technically overbuilt and could handle weight above. Barring that I could see covering the roof with solar panels too. Install a battery bank and a decent inverter and on a sunny day you could power the front cooler just off sunlight. Pipe dream for me, but you gotta think big or go home.

 

On Saturday I worked ahead a little bit by filling some buckets for flowers on Monday (today). This gave me about an hour to work on the door. I only had the side boards affixed with three finishing nails each, so I drilled some pilot holes and countersunk the heads of the screws below the surface of the wood. Then it was caulkpocalypse #2. Emptied a full tube into the crack between the boards and the brick and filled in the screw holes. Opened up a second tube to finish the crack above the door too.

 

 

The wood piece above the door needs to be addressed badly. It's soft and rotted on the surface but not too bad behind that. Supposedly Minwax makes a product called Wood Hardener which will harden the wood up allowing me to epoxy over the low spots. Gotta try to look for that at the hardware store. Once I get that hardened and filled with epoxy then I can prime it and attach the frame for the screen door (the frame will cover over this board so it doesn't have to be pretty or anything - just functional).

 

As for the threshold, there was a board attached to the top of it which was rotten.. My cutoff piece from the sides just aren't long enough to fill it completely. The old piece of wood from the top is fine but not wide enough. It is long enough though, so I think I'll cut some pieces out of that and piece together a new top board for the threshold and top frame of the door.

 

 

Shouldn't make too much difference if the threshold is one piece or two - as long as everything is caulked and painted it should hold up as it'll be between the doors.

 

So I at least made a little progress today, even if it was for only an hour.

 

- Zombie

[Space Voyager]

you gotta think big or go home.

 

That's what I said to Kerberos but they still went for The Pit 2 instead of Sword of the Stars 3!!!

 

Sorry for going OT! Great work with the caulk'n'all, BTW.

[Zombie]

Today was a gorgeous day in terms of weather, probably the last warm day of the year so I took full advantage of it. In the morning I went to the hardware store and picked up some of that wood hardener. It's supposedly a resin dissolved in acetone - when the acetone evaporates, it leaves behind the resin which dries and hardens like a plastic inside the wood (takes 2-4 hours). I had a crusty old plastic container I used for cleaning out red polyurethane paintbrushes so I poured about a cup of that hardener in the container and kept brushing it on the wood till the stuff was gone. The acetone stripped the old paint right off the container so most of that ended up on the wood, nobody is going to see that anyway so it doesn't matter.

 

While waiting for the wood hardener to do it's business I started work on the threshold. First was drilling and countersinking holes in the cutoff piece of wood from the side. Then I caulked the corner where it met the side board and drove some screws down tight (making sure to leave a little space for the weatherstripping). The board was about 2 1/2 inches too short so I cut a piece off the old top and spliced that in, making sure to caulk everything. Since I was down there, I also attached the lower part of the frame for the screen door.

 

 

Picked up some coated 2 1/2" and 3 1/2" screws at the hardware store which they haven't had since before the pandemic hit - I might go back and pick up some other sizes too. I'm a sucker for good hardware.

 

Anyhow I did the same thing for the top as I did to the bottom, though I had to pound in a couple finishing nails in first to hold it in place while I drove the screws in. Everything got a good caulk job too.

 

 

By this time I figured the resin from the wood hardener had dried so I mixed up some bondo and applied that over the big craters in the wood. The bondo was pretty runny for some reason and it kept sagging out of the hole. I just kept pushing it back up till it started to set.

 

 

Not my best bondo job ever but at least the holes are filled. A quick sanding and it should be much better. Here again though, it doesn't have to look beautiful as it's going to be covered over with the frame for the screen door. All I did was give the screws something to hold on to.

 

Hopefully I can work on it again tomorrow. The weather is supposed to be iffy again but maybe I can sneak in something.

 

- Zombie

[Space Voyager]

Wood hardener?!!?!

 

:writes it into notes:

 

I totally knew that was a thing.

 

I hope people at work notice the details, like even covering the screws to make it all perfect. If they don't... WE DO.

[Zombie]

Only a minor update for today. It rained on and off lightly nearly all afternoon but in between the drops I borrowed a sander from a colleague and sanded the bondo area flat and also lightly sanded the caulked spots from the screws. I even sanded the threshold under the door as it was sticking. That helped, but didn't solve the sticking problem completely. I investigated this a little and found out the screws for the hinges are a little loose. So I'll need to put in some bigger screws to hopefully straighten it out. The windows are also rattling so I'll probably need to reglaze (or in this case, caulk). But that can wait for now. I want to get the outside squared away.

 

- Zombie

[Zombie]

So it rained all morning yesterday and part of the afternoon too. Obviously no painting, plus I had to cut flowers which took some time. After that I was free to do whatever I wanted, but we just got in a fairly big basket order and I wanted to get those priced and put away. Got part of it done yesterday and finished up the rest today. Most of the shelves were empty when I started, btw.

 

 

The very top shelf is used for really big baskets or overflow for stuff below. My priority is to get as much of that down below as possible so it's at eye level and accessible. I think I did a good job in that respect as there's just a few bigger baskets above and no overflow. So I'm glad that's done as it makes the place look a little nicer. I still have to put away a supply order we got in the other day (mostly plastic bags for wrapping arrangements and plants when it's cold out). Normally I get this type of order in the second week of November, but with the supply chain problems and costs rising I figured it's better to have this stuff ready just in case. And the last thing I want to do before winter hits is to clean out underneath a couple shelving units along the wall (those wire rack units in some of my pics when I was painting the inside of the back garage door). But those are all rainy day type projects.

 

Painting must commence as soon as possible as it's getting pretty chilly out now. I can sometimes extend the season a bit if the weather cooperates (like it did last year) but that's never a sure thing. Second week of November is usually about as late as I can paint as long as it doesn't rain or frost overnight.

 

- Zombie

[Thorondor]

Wow, that's a lot of baskets, Zombie!

 

Different shapes, sizes and colors. That should cover a nice assortment of customer preferences and specific use cases too I imagine.

 

Despite the variety I like how you managed to get everything pretty neatly arranged. It may be a rather dense arrangement (no pun intended ) given shelving constraints, but it's certainly not messy.

 

By the way, I think you've actually got it right ordering stuff in advance - this year dalays are likely going to be a thing and prices can only get negatively impacted when that happens. Well played!

[Zombie]

Today was cool and sunny but that's good weather for working outside on a normally hot roof, right? Anyhow, I got out the brown paint and touched up the wood side frame of the door where I caulked and also the edge of the board that faces outside. Then I got out the wall color paint and put a coat on those unsightly green areas from the mistint. Looked a lot better!

 

Then I started work on attaching the outside frame for the screen door. I first did a dry fit just to see if there were any issues. Turns out, yes there was. The new sides are just a tiny bit below the surface of the brick maybe 1/4 inch so trying to attach the new frame on the outside was wobbly, and I was afraid that the space between the side and the outer frame would be too big to make it a secure attachment point. What I needed was a wood spacer about 1/4 inch wide, which I found out in the small garage (we used to use these furring strips to attach the plastic of the greenhouse to the frame with dimensions 1/4" x 1 1/2" x 48"). A lucky find, but they were too wide. How to cut them down to fit the 3/4 inch side would be another obstacle. I ended up using a utility knife to score the wood as deep as I could, then pounding in a flat blade screwdriver and twisting to separate it into two pieces. It wasn't as clean as cutting it, but it doesn't need to look perfect either as it's just a shim.

 

So I installed the wood shims around the perimeter of the side frame with some wire brads.

 

 

Another dry fit after the shims and the intended result was reached. This should work. The shims are just a tiny bit too thick so the frame doesn't touch the brick anywhere which leaves a gap. I might fill that gap like I did with the sides by using some of those foam pieces as cushioning and crack filling. With these modifications I had to trim down the outer frame sides by a couple inches. Hopefully that doesn't come back to haunt me later.

 

All in all, it's looking up. Fingers crossed that the screen door frame still fits after all this remodeling.

 

- Zombie

[Thorondor]

Quite a bit of on-the-fly shoehorning work there, Zombie.

 

Using a flat blade screwdriver to separate the extra wood is something I expect we've all resorted to at some point to wing it, but what matters in the end is that it gets it done. Without a chisel around a man's gotta do what a man's gotta do.

 

As you imply when there's shaving off on the one hand, then cushioning to compensate on the other it can bite you on the rear if tolerances are too off. I expect the screen door frame will be fine with a little give, but we'll find out soon enough.

[Zombie]

So the following work happened yesterday - today I was way too busy to get anything done outside. My first priority was to get those foam strips installed around the frame. Luckily they were 3" wide so I was able to cut 3 pieces of 1" wide which was more than enough to fill most of the gap with a little leftover for caulk. Same deal as before - spray adhesive worked great to get the pieces to stick to the brick. I painted the furring strip spacers around the frame after this so that they were protected in the interim. Then I started to work on the outer frame. Predrilled some holes with a countersunk spot for the screw heads and finally remembered to take a quick pic of the progress.

 

 

Drove in the screws and the frame is super secure so no worries about the overlap of the frame on the brick. I did the same for the top as I did for the sides though there was a little adjusting that needed to be done. The moment of truth has arrived, time to insert the storm door. Jammed it into the hole for this pic, though it didn't quite fit.

 

 

Doesn't look too bad. The width is almost perfect but the frame height is off so the door sticks out at the top. Knew I shouldn't have cut those pieces off the side frame, dagnammit. I should have really taken a picture of the setup before I started work. Oh well. Here's what the upper right part of the storm door looks like.

 

 

The thickness of the storm door's aluminum frame is about an inch and if I cut a strip off the lower part of the top frame (3/4 inch) that means I'll still be short 1/4 inch. I traced around the door on to the frame to give me an idea of what needs to be done.

 

 

Not fully sure about cutting that piece out of the frame. It can be done of course, that isn't a problem. But I'm thinking that the 1/4 inch can be made up by actually removing the furring strip spacer at the top which would allow the door to fit deeper into the frame. Still might need another spacer on the outside, but I haven't tackled the specifics yet. Another dry fit seems to be in order - this time I'm leaving the top frame off to see how much of a difference there is.

 

Oh, and here's something interesting I found out. When I was dry fitting the door I noticed there was some writing on the storm door's aluminum frame. It looks like whoever installed it wrote their initials and date.

 

 

Someone with the initials MS installed it in September 1979. Ok, so that was way before my time as I started work in November 1988. Old bossman is dead so I can't ask him if he knows who it was (he probably would). Current bossman was probably too young to know if it was an employee or a carpenter/contractor as he's baffled. So it's a little mystery, but a cool piece of info as it nails down a date. Not sure what was up there before the storm door was installed, maybe a curved-top wooden door of some sort? I wish there were some early pics of the building.

 

- Zombie

[Thorondor]

Things have mostly been going swimmingly, and that first picture is a testament to that, Zombie.

 

Very competently handled, if a little on the snug side, one wonders looking at the second pic.

 

But I gotta chuckle at the realization you came to afterwards. Ruh-roh!

 

Your tracing then shows the real extent of the margin needed (little upward sloping of the line there on the very right end side for some reason?).

 

If you ask me I'd keep it simple and cut that marked segment out of the frame. Beats trying to inch things along by making a number of little compromises all over in the hopes of eventually getting it just right. Improvising solutions is fine, but finer still is leaving the least you can to chance.

 

Interesting "archaeological" find by the way. MS could be... Mason Storm, or maybe Moses Slats & Co. Must have been divine in the summer of 79. Whatever the case, built to last.

[Zombie]

Your tracing then shows the real extent of the margin needed (little upward sloping of the line there on the very right end side for some reason?).

 

Yeah, the upper right part of the aluminum frame of the storm door stuck up and my fat Sharpie marker couldn't get behind it to make a somewhat straight line.

 

So I continued work on the door a little bit today. I was at least able to address some of the issues and pull it together. Did I mention it was pretty cold today (5C)? Instead of cutting the top part of the frame immediately, I first took it off, then set the storm door in the opening to see if it was even going to be close. It looked okay, so I set the frame above the door loosely to see how much needed to be trimmed off. My tracing seemed to be on target so it should work. The biggest problem I had was cutting the lower part of the frame above the door off. I drilled a big hole at either end and cut it straight with a hand saw. I didn't have a jig saw as it was at home so I had to make a plunge cut with the circular saw. Not my best piece of carpentry but it got the job done.

 

When I put the storm door back in the opening, I noticed the door was rubbing and sticking on the lower left part of the frame. I ended up taking out all the screws except for the top one, shifting the frame over a little, then driving in the screws again. Problem solved. Put the top part of the frame in place and saw it fit good, so I drove some screws in there too. Before I started attaching the door I wrote my initials and date to the frame on the inside - I might as well continue the tradition, right? Anyhow, I found some better screws to use for the outside and reused the stainless steel screws for the hinges.

 

 

The top part of the door was sticking out from the frame yet (the door is about 1 1/4 inches thick while the frame is 3/4 inch thick so about half an inch too thick). I had to go rummaging around in the small garage for something to use and found a cutoff piece of wood I used for the frame. I just cut it to size and sanded the edges and placed it above the door as a dry fit.

 

 

Perfect size for additional framing. Didn't have a chance to prime and paint it yet as I ran out of time. No worries though, I'll do that tomorrow inside and put a fan on it to get it to dry quick. A few screws in that into the frame and a little bit of caulking and I'll finally be ready to put the final coat of paint on it all. Coming together nicely now. And the temps outside are supposed to improve to 10C for the last part of the week which should make caulking and painting a little more comfortable.

 

- Zombie